Carbon monoxide (CO) is a colorless, mostly odorless, and tasteless gas or liquid that results from incomplete oxidation of carbon in combustion.

• Auto ignition temperature (liquid) 1128°F
• Boiling point: -190°C
• Burns with a violet flame
• Classed as an inorganic compound
• Slightly soluble in water
• Solidification point: -207°C
• Soluble in alcohol and benzene
• Specific gravity: 0.96716
• Specific volume: 13.8 cu. ft./lb. (70°F)

Sources of CO include:

• Automobile exhaust from attached garages
• Back-drafting from furnaces, gas water heaters, wood stoves, and fireplaces
• Gas stoves
• Generators and other gasoline-powered equipment
• Leaking chimneys and furnaces
• Tobacco smoke
• Unvented kerosene and gas space heaters

Incomplete oxidation during combustion in gas ranges and unvented gas or kerosene heaters can cause high concentrations of CO in indoor air. Worn or poorly adjusted and maintained combustion devices (e.g., boilers, furnaces) can be sources, or if the flue is improperly sized, blocked, disconnected, or leaking. Auto, truck, or bus exhaust from attached garages, nearby roads, or parking areas can be sources, too.

The effects at low concentrations include fatigue in healthy people and chest pain in people with heart disease; effects at higher concentrations include impaired vision and coordination, headaches, dizziness, confusion, and nausea. 

CO can cause flu-like symptoms that clear up after leaving home. At very high concentrations, CO exposure is fatal. Acute effects are due to the formation of carboxyhemoglobin in the blood, inhibiting oxygen intake. At moderate concentrations, the result may be angina, impaired vision, and reduced brain function.

This depends on the type of filter and how you use your furnace. Review the types of filters from the list below:

Disposable filters: A disposable filter should be changed every 6 to 8 weeks. This type isn’t very efficient and provides only a basic amount of air cleaning. If your furnace fan runs continuously, it should be cleaned every 3 to 4 weeks.

Electrostatic air cleaner: Electrostatic air cleaners should be cleaned monthly. To do so, vacuum the nylon media and then rinse the filter with water. Be sure to rinse in the opposite direction of the airflow. The older the filter, the more difficult it will be to clean.

Electronic air cleaner (EAC): An EAC works well until the cells get dirty. When cleaning the cells, don’t break any of the thin wires on the outside of the cells. If a wire breaks, the EAC won’t work. Be sure to clean the prescreens as well.

Hammock: Hammock filters must be washed and replaced every 8 to 10 weeks. When you purchase a replacement hammock filter, it might be larger than the metal frame it’s attached to. Simply install the filter on the frame and trim off the excess.

Large, pleated media filter: You should replace the media cartridge annually. Have the cartridge replaced at the same time as your annual maintenance service.

Washable filters: Clean washable filters every 6 to 8 weeks. If you run your furnace fan continuously, you should wash filters every 3 to 4 weeks. If there is visual degradation, please replace the filter.

This varies by location. Air conditioning units that are used frequently will be replaced sooner. Your air conditioner should last 11 to 18 years.

Yes, annual maintenance on the unit extends its life and reduces annual operating costs. Yearly maintenance inspections can spot small problems before they become large and expensive repairs.

Most heating systems are reliable and provide quick, comfortable heat when you need it – if you take good care of the system. If you have air conditioning, shut it down and cover it for the winter. Please follow these steps prior to furnace use:

1. Clean or change the furnace filter.
2. If your furnace or boiler has a pilot light, ensure it is on.
3. Set the furnace to the “heat” position. Turn up the thermostat.
4. Let the furnace run through a couple of cycles to make sure it’s working properly.
5. Perform a quick visual inspection of the furnace area to make sure there are no items that could interfere with airflow or combustion.
6. Call or text Franzen Heating & Cooling to arrange for professional cleaning, inspection, and precision tune-up services. 

The most important thing to look for when buying a central air conditioner is the contractor who will be installing it. If installed incorrectly, the best piece of equipment won’t give you the comfort you deserve.

HVAC equipment, especially air conditioning equipment, requires great skill and care during the installation process. If just a braze or solder joint is not correct, it could lead to leaks of refrigerant into the atmosphere and potential contamination in the refrigerant system. These items are expensive to repair, not to mention time-consuming and aggravating. Get in touch us for assistance.

AFUE is an acronym for Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency. 

For example, if you get a bill for $100 for using your furnace, which is 50% efficient, you put $50 worth of heat in your home and $50 worth of heat outside.

This temperature variation is due to the fact that cool air is heavy. Heavy air takes more effort to move, especially upwards. Your furnace fan has to work harder to move the air up two stories. Additionally, cool air, unlike warm air, tends to fall. Once you manage to get the air upstairs, it will fall back to the first floor.

1. Make sure the furnace fan is on the highest possible setting. Most furnaces installed today have a multi-speed, direct-drive fan motor. Ask your service contractor to make sure the highest speed is being used for air conditioning. If the fan motor has belts and pulleys, check with your contractor about installing a larger pulley.
2. Adjust the balance on your ductwork to force as much cool air upstairs as possible. If your ductwork is accessible from the basement and has dampers installed in each of the supply air runs, make sure the dampers for the upper floor are open fully. Close any dampers for rooms on the first floor that do not get much use or are very small (such as the powder room, formal living room, or dining room). Keep the dampers fully open for the kitchen and the main living or family area. If the ductwork isn’t accessible or doesn’t have dampers, you may balance the airflow by opening and closing the dampers in the supply air registers. If you can’t get a register closed, covering the register with a telephone book works well. Re-balance the ductwork system when you switch over to heating. During the heating season, you’ll want most of the warm air delivered to the first floor. It will move on its own to the second floor.
3. Use fans to move cooler air. Place a large fan at the top of the stairway to draw the cooler air up. A ceiling fan on the second floor can be a big improvement.
4. Check your return air grills and make sure they are clean.
5. Install “high-wall” return air grills on the second floor.
6. High-wall return air grills are installed near the ceiling, not the floor. This enables the furnace to draw the warmest air from the top of the house back into your system. A service contractor can give you more information and let you know if it’s possible to install high-wall grills on your system.